Loreto may be one of Mexico’s best kept secrets. It is located in Baja California Sur on the Sea of Cortez, also known as the Gulf of California. Jacques Cousteau deemed the Sea of Cortez the world’s aquarium and the waters off of Loreto are now protected as the Parque Nacional Bahía de Loreto. Loreto is the historical capitol of the Californias. The first mission was built in Loreto by the Jesuits in 1697. It is also a Pueblo Magico, which are towns in Mexico known for their beauty and history. There are only two in Baja, the other is Todos Santos.
When to go
Summer is the best time for diving because the water is warm and the visibility is better. Winter is the best time for hiking due to cooler temperatures. We went in November for Thanksgiving and we were able to do both, but the water for diving was pretty cold and visibility wasn’t great. We will be back to dive in the summer. Also, be sure to check the cruise schedule before you go, we honestly didn’t even know cruises stopped there. The one full day we planned to stay in Loreto and explore the town, a cruise ship was docked for the day. The once quiet town of Loreto became a bustling tourist trap, but is a rare occurrence.
Where to eat
We had a whole week to explore the bars and restaurants of Loreto, here are our favorites. Keep in mind that a lot of restaurants are closed on Mondays.
El Zopilote Brewing
Never expected to find a brewery in Loreto and a good one at that. El Zopilote had great beer, tortilla soup and burgers with homemade buns. And to top it all off the service was impeccable. The restaurant opened in 2006 and in 2014 they started brewing their own beers.
Mita Gourmet
Whenever I see octopus on a menu I have to order it and their octopus tostada did not disappoint. I will say that I thought their menu looked a little boring, but the food was not. We enjoyed our seafood soup and grilled fish filet with some exceptional live music. If you’re craving some paella, be sure to reserve at least 12 hours in advance.
Claudia’s
Just steps from our hotel, Claudia’s is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. We came for a margarita and stayed for the delicious food, even coming back a second time. Panchos nachos and the fish ceviche were both amazing starters and the grilled fish was cooked to perfection.
Mezzaluna
If you’re like me, you can’t eat Mexican for every meal. Mezzaluna is an Uruguayan restaurant serving wood-fired pizzas and empanadas, both of which were super tasty. They also have a huge beer selection and great wine.
La Route
If you’re craving good coffee and matcha in real mugs, then La Route is your little oasis. When they ask “for here or to go”, respond “aquí” for no plastic waste. Enjoy a slow morning in the square sipping a warm beverage and maybe reading a book.
La Palapa
We came here for our Thanksgiving dinner, an untraditional one at that. I ordered a platter of local chocolate clams that were a warm, buttery delight.
Mi Loreto
Mi Loreto offers simple, traditional Mexican fare. Tortillas are made fresh right there, so tacos are a must!
What to do
Scuba diving or snorkeling
You can’t come to Loreto without experiencing the underwater world. Blue Nation Diving is the best diving and snorkeling outfitter in Loreto. Because the waters off of Loreto are protected, no plastic is allowed. Blue Nation gives you a bento box light lunch, snacks and filtered water served in real cups. Post dives we got to snack on cookies and pound cake. For lunch we munched on rolled bean tacos and salad one day, guacamole and chips the next.
We dove with them two days exploring two different islands. The first day we went to Coronado Island, on the way there we cruised alongside a pod of dolphins. On our first dive we saw a ton of spotted eagle rays and stingrays, we even got to see a sea turtle. On the way to the next dive site we saw a cluster of blue-footed boobies perched on a cliff ledge. The next dive we saw a nudibranch and on our safety stop played with the local sea lion colony. For lunch they took us to a beautiful white sand beach before heading back to the mainland.
The second day we went to South Carmen Island. Here we saw schools of fish, lobsters, eels, another nudibranch, scorpion fish and black coral. Between dives we cruised into a little bay to check out the local wildlife and we had lunch on the boat after the second dive before heading back in. Unfortunately, I had some issues with my underwater camera, so I don’t have much to show you from underwater.
Walking Tour
It’s important when you travel somewhere to learn about it’s history, so we took a walking tour to learn about the history of Loreto. Our guide, Carlos, did a fabulous job of keeping things educational and interesting at the same time. We walked down to the Malecón, went to the first mission and ended it with some freshly made margaritas.
Hiking
Loreto offers great hiking thanks to the Sierra de la Giganta mountain range. We chose to do a guided hike of Mesquite Canyon. Loreto hadn’t had rain in three years until three months ago they were hit by a hurricane. Flash floods took out a lot of the roads, including the one leading to Mesquite Canyon. So let’s just say the ride up to Mesquite Canyon was an interesting one, thankfully our guide, Luis, knew what he was doing. We arrived safely and set out on our hike.
When we got to the start of the canyon there was a pool of water with a small waterfall in the background. We asked Luis how deep the water was before getting in, he told us it was two meters deep. We knew we were going to get wet, but we had no idea we would be swimming! The water was cold, but we quickly got used to it. We swam up to the first waterfall and had to climb up it, way easier than it sounds. From there, there was no more swimming, just wading through water here and there.
This was such a cool hike and we had it all to ourselves. Other popular hikes in the area are Tabor Canyon and the ancient Canipole cave paintings. I don’t suggest hiking on your own unless you are experienced hikers and have a very detailed guidebook. We met a couple while booking our guided hike and they said they couldn’t find the Tabor Canyon trailhead on their own.
Rent a car for a day
We rented a car for a day and went to explore the small city of Mulegé and Bahía Concepción. In Mulegé, we explored Misión Santa Rosalía by foot and overlooked the Río Oasis Mulegé. Lunch at Asadero Dany is a must, this little hole in the wall served up the best fried fish tacos I’ve ever had. We also enjoyed some beers while watching the World Cup with our very friendly waitress that was more than willing to speak some very slow Spanish to us.
Next we headed back down to Bahía Concepción, which is a well-known bay for whale sharks to hang out in. To our dismay, it was a very windy day, so we did not get to enjoy the beaches to the full extent. Most beaches have a small day fee or overnight fee for campers. We loved Playa Los Cocos and Playa el Requeson for their untouched beauty.
Where to stay
Posada de las Flores is a gorgeous hotel in the town square with a rooftop pool and a spiral staircase. A continental breakfast was included, the hotel staff were very friendly and it was very close to a plethora of restaurants. I do wish there were sun loungers on the rooftop and the Wifi did not reach our corner room, but I was happy to not check emails. The square can be noisy at times, but if you like being in the thick of things, this is the hotel for you!
I hope you learned everything you need to know about Loreto, Mexico from this blog post. If you liked this blog post, be sure to check out La Paz, Baja California Sur, Mexico! Don’t forget to book your trip with your favorite travel advisor, yours truly.
