Most tourists head to the grasslands of Pantanal, Brazil to easily see wildlife on display. Instead head to Manaus, Brazil, the gateway to the Brazilian Amazon. As you head upriver, there is still a chance of seeing wildlife, but you will also get away from the crowds and deeper into the unknown. I was lucky enough to travel here on a FAM (familiarization) trip with Our Whole Village, this is my guide to the Brazilian Amazon.
When to go
There are only two seasons in the Brazilian Amazon, wet season and dry season. Water levels during these times can fluctuate more than thirty feet, changing the scenery drastically at different times of the year. Dry season is high season from July to September. We went during wet season in March and the water level was 30ft higher than its lowest. As we initially started to move upriver, we noticed just the treetops were sticking out of the water. Most days we had sunshine with the occasional afternoon shower. There is less wildlife this time of year due to the water levels, but we still were able to see quite a bit. I can only imagine how different the scenery would look during dry season.
Currency and Language
The currency in Brazil is called the Brazilian Real, $1 US dollar equals about five Brazilian Real. This makes it fairly easy to do conversions in your head. The language spoken in Brazil is Portuguese, which is a tough language even if you speak Spanish. English isn’t as widely spoken in the Brazilian Amazon, so learning a few words before your trip can come in handy. Here is some Portuguese I learned along the way.
- Hola – hello
- Bom dia – good day (the d is pronounced like a j)
- Obrigado – thank you
- Boto – dolphin
What to do
River Expedition
Most river boats start in Manaus and end in Novo Airão. Our expedition in the Brazilian Amazon started in Novo Airão (almost a two hour drive upriver from Manaus) and went up the Rio Negro from there. If you’re looking to travel deeper into the Amazon then this is the trip for you! No service, no WiFi, no tourists, just you and the sounds of the Amazon rainforest. You just have to be willing to rough it a little.
Our expedition started at a floating restaurant on the Rio Negro in Novo Airão. We ate lunch and went for a swim while waiting for our boat to arrive. The river water is very acidic due to the incomplete breakdown of vegetation, therefore there are virtually no mosquitoes. This makes the water very dark in color and safe to swim in. We did the five day Jaú National Park river expedition with Katerre Expeditions. There is also an eight day option that takes you further up the river and deeper into the Amazon.
The Boats
Katerre Expeditions has two different size boats to offer, one that holds sixteen pax and one that holds eight pax. The larger boat, Jacaré-Açu, is 64 feet with three levels. There are eight air-conditioned suites, four on the first level with bunk beds and four on the second level with double beds. It has a spacious lounge area and a rooftop sundeck with captains chairs and hammocks. The smaller boat, Jacaré Tinga, is 53 feet with two levels. It has one suite on the first floor with a double bed, the second floor has another suite with a double bed and a bunk room with two sets of bunk beds.
Onboard
We were very well fed on this expedition, you will not go hungry. Gluten-free, dairy-free and vegetarian options were available and equally delicious. Beer and caipirinhas (a word I haven’t quite mastered how to pronounce, but mastered in drinking) are also included in the trip. Your local English speaking guide onboard will be your new best friend and teach as much as he can about life in the Amazon. The staff genuinely seemed to love their jobs and were hardworking, yet had fun at the same time.
These river expeditions are family friendly and are great for kids three and older. Talk about a unique learning experience for your kiddos! The smaller boat would be perfect for a small group adventure or a private family expedition.
Animal Encounters
While chugging along upriver our guide sighted a sloth, a family of monkeys and dolphins. Pictures do not do them justice, below you will find our much closer animal encounters.
Piranha Fishing
Wake up with the sun and go on the hunt for some piranha. Fishing for piranha required a little bit of finesse, that I apparently didn’t possess. As soon as you felt that nibble you had to apply a sort of flicking technique to the fishing pole in order to hook it. Thankfully my fellow travelers and guide were much better at it than me, since what we caught became our lunch.
Turtle Conservation
Jaú National Park is taking turtle conservation into their own hands. Local people do eat turtles and the conservation project was put in place to counteract that. When entering the park, we learned from a ranger about the turtle conservation work taking place at the park. Nesting sites are marked and monitored until the eggs hatch. The baby sea turtles are then kept under a watchful eye for a month until their shells harden and it is more likely for them to survive. Little did we know that in the next room over were a bunch of baby sea turtles waiting to be released back into the wild.
Pink River Dolphins
On the last morning of our expedition, we stopped by Flutuante dos Botos to say hello to the friendly pink river dolphins. Amazon river dolphins are considered vulnerable due to habitat fragmentation and river contamination. The dolphins (botos) here are free to come and go as they please. They are fed fish by the local biologist, which is why they keep coming back.
Other Activities
Hiking
We did a few hikes on our trip, but nothing too crazy. At Madadá Caves, we did a three hour hike learning about the local flora and fauna. One morning after piranha fishing, we hiked around the ruins of an old rubber plantation and learned how rubber is made. Once we got to Jaú National Park, we did a quick hike to hug the largest tree on the Rio Negro. The toughest part was probably slithering through some tight rock formations at Madadá Caves.
Visiting Indigenous Communities
We were graciously invited into a few local indigenous communities along the Rio Negro. They showed us their homes and simple, yet beautiful way of life. We toured schools being built by a nonprofit supported by Katerre and Mirante do Gaviao. We were also shown how to make yucca flour, a very long and tedious process. Local handicrafts such as necklaces, bracelets, wood carvings and woven trivets were presented to us for purchase. You just can’t get something as genuine as buying something ultra local, straight from the source, while supporting an indigenous community.
Canoeing
One early morning we set off in canoes captained by locals to paddle through Monkey Island, in search of monkeys of course. There is a family of monkeys that got here via a fallen tree, which washed away and left them cut off from the rest of the world. They have learned to live and thrive amongst the treetops in a very water dominated habitat. That morning we didn’t find any monkeys, but we got to sit in silence in awe of the beauty and reflections surrounding us. It was a very relaxing and meditative experience.
Meeting of Waters Tour
The “meeting of waters” is where two rivers of varying temperature, speed and amount of sediment meet. The Amazon River (brown) and the Rio Negro (black) meet in Manaus, Brazil and run for a few miles refusing to mix. You can take a tour of this phenomenon by boat from Manaus or by seaplane. We decided to fly over on our way to the international airport from Mirante do Gaviao in Novo Airão with Rico Taxi Aereo and the views did not disappoint.
Where to stay
Manaus
Casa dos Frades
The beautiful Casa dos Frades hotel overlooks São Sebastião Square and the Teatro Amazonas in Manaus, Brazil. The hotel acts as a museum to the Capuchin Friars. Highlights of our one night stay were the open-air natural feel, views from the rooftop, many well-designed meeting areas and beautiful breakfast spread.
Novo Airão
Mirante do Gaviao
End your expedition on a high note, or if a river expedition isn’t up your alley, then there is a gorgeously appointed luxury hotel situated in Novo Airão that will be your gateway to the Brazilian Amazon. Mirante do Gaviao is a sustainable luxury hotel situated on the Rio Negro that feels as if you are deep in the Amazon rainforest, even though it’s located just on outskirts of town.
With headboards woven by local artisans, to the stunning wood architecture, everything at Mirante do Gaviao is meticulously thought-out. Enjoy fresh dishes made with vegetables from the onsite garden at the waterfront restaurant. Partake in some birdwatching while sitting poolside with a cocktail in hand. And don’t forget to catch sunrise or sunset from the almost 50 foot high lookout tower.
I hope I’ve inspired you to head to the Brazilian Amazon for a river expedition of your own. If you liked this blog post, be sure to check out What to Pack for the Inca Trail! Don’t forget to book your trip with your favorite travel advisor, yours truly.
