Havasupai is on many backpackers bucket list or will inspire many to take up backpacking. When you see pictures of that gorgeous blue water against those red rocks, you can’t help but want to experience that magic. I had been wanting to go to Havasupai since before Beyonce made it popular. This trip was over three years in the making (thank you pandemic), but it was well worth the wait! Keep in mind this is sacred land of the Havasupai people, educate yourself and be respectful of the locals. I highly suggest reading “I Am the Grand Canyon: The Story of the Havasupai People” by Stephen Hirst. Here is my complete guide to backpacking Havasupai, specifically in May.
How to get permits
This trip definitely takes some planning, you must aquire permits that are released only once per year. On February 1, 2020 at 7am PT I was ready at my laptop to snag four permits in the month of May. Be sure to create an account here well in advance. You may also have to be flexible with your dates, I did not get the exact dates I wanted. The larger the group, the harder it’s going to be.
I specifically chose May for one reason and that reason was so that it would be warm enough to swim, but not too hot to sleep and hike comfortably. You can also reserve a mule to carry your bags for an extra cost, but we opted to carry our own bags. Please note that if you do opt to use a mule, you may not have your bags when you get to the campground and may have to wait a bit to set up camp.
Where to stay and check-in the night before
We stayed at the Grand Canyon Caverns Inn the night before, this is also where you check-in before your hike in to Havasupai. This is essentially a no frills motel, but it is the closest stay to the trailhead (you are not allowed to camp at the trailhead). The inn has a store for some last minute things you may have forgotten and there is also a restaurant on the property. We ate dinner at the restaurant, they will even pack you a lunch for your hike in. You can also stay at Hualapai Lodge, which is a little further down the road and slightly more expensive. We woke up bright and early, 4:30am to be exact, in order to beat the heat and the crowds on the trail. The drive to the trailhead from Grand Canyon Caverns Inn is a little over an hour.
Packing list
- Permit and wristbands
- Backpacking backpack – I used the Osprey Aura 50 liter
- Trekking poles – these definitely came in handy on the downhill and uphill battles, especially with my bad knees.
- Tent or hammock – for sleeping
- Sleeping bag – it was almost too warm for a sleeping bag in May
- Crash pad – if you opt for tent sleeping
- Pillows – I love my NEMO pillow that packs down into a tiny little stuff sack
- Hiking boots – preferably those with ankle support
- Hiking socks
- Hiking clothes
- Lightweight puffy jacket, rain jacket or sweatshirt – depending on the season you go
- Water shoes/sandals – we swear by our Keens
- Bathing suit – if you’re there during the summer months you do not want to forget this essential item.
- Dry bag or packable daypack
- Bear bin, rat sack or any kind of contraption to keep the pesky squirrels away from your food.
- String – to hang food and clothes to dry
- Dehydrated food
- Snacks
- Coffee + Tea
- Headlamps & lantern
- Cups/bowls/pot/stove – this one is our favorite
- Butane canister
- Soap and sponge
- Stasher bags – for packing out your garbage
- Hat
- Sunglasses
- Sunscreen
- Bug spray
- Hand sanitizer
- Wilderness wipes
- Toothbrush/toothpaste
- Deodorant
- Leave-in conditioner – I use Stream2Sea products because they are Earth-friendly and keep my dry, curly hair tame.
- Deck of cards – great for nightly entertainment as long as it isn’t windy.
- Kindle – for reading after dark.
- Camp chairs – picnic tables aren’t guaranteed, so these definitely come in handy.
- Travel towels – we love these
- Compass
- Download trails to AllTrails – we only got off trail once on the hike in and were able to easily correct it. The hike to Beaver Falls can be a bit confusing, so having the trails downloaded can come in handy for that.
- First aid kit
- MSR 6L water bag – we were kind of far from the spring, so this came in handy as to not have to take so many trips to the spring. Water cubes/jugs can be bulky, this is more packable.
- SteriPen – or some sort of water filtration system. The water from the spring is safe to drink unless stated otherwise. This is for people taking extra caution or plan to drink water from the creek.
- Electrolytes – for staying hydrated
- Medications
- Camera
- Portable charger and cords
- Skin glide – anti-chafe
- Face mask
- Cash – for food, snacks, drinks, stickers, etc.
The hike in
After showing our permits and wristbands at the checkpoint and parking, we hit the trail around 7am. The hike to the campground is about ten miles. The first mile or so is all down hill and then it is fairly flat the rest of the way. The trail is rocky and can be a little annoying and tough on the ankles. When you get to the village, don’t be fooled, there is still quite a ways to go to the campground. If you need a break, you can get some food at the cafe, just be sure to wear your mask. Between the village and the campground I could feel some blisters forming and my knees were aching like crazy, but I powered through. We got to the campground around noon and went on the hunt to find the perfect campsite.
The campground
There is a freshwater spring towards the beginning of the campground, but that is also where the campground is the most crowded. We opted to head towards the end of the campground, closer to Mooney Falls. My tip is to go past the second bathrooms and try to get a spot right on the creek, use the logs or foot bridges to get across the creek. Not all campsites have access to the creek and not all campsites have a picnic table.
We didn’t absolutely love our campsite, but it also wasn’t terrible, we had creek access and some shade. We thought about moving the next day, but our neighbors let us know they were leaving the next day and could take their picnic table. It can get hot during the day, so I suggest being away from the campground from 10am-4pm. The squirrels weren’t as bad as expected, but still be cautious.
Mooney and Beaver Falls
On our second day in Havasupai we decided to conquer Mooney Falls and Beaver Falls. In order to access Mooney Falls and Beaver Falls, you must first test your limits in a series of tunnels and ladders leading down to a Mooney Falls. It is quite the adrenaline rush, but in my opinion is totally worth it! Just take your time and go at your own pace, don’t let anyone rush you. There were a pile of gloves you could use at the top to help with your grip since it’s wet, we didn’t bring our own and we did not use the ones there and we got down just fine.
Once we got down to the bottom of Mooney Falls, we continued our hike all the way to Beaver Falls. You have to cross the creek a total of three times on the way there and there are a few more ladders to climb. You can literally stop anywhere on this hike and go for a swim, if a spot speaks to you, go for it! Beaver Falls is the perfect spot to post up for the day; we went for a swim, read a book and ate some snacks.
Mooney Falls is twice as tall as Havasu Falls and is best photographed in the afternoon, when the sun hits the falls. We got back to Mooney Falls just as the sun was starting to hit it and it was absolutely stunning. And you’ll be happy to know that the hike back up to the campground is way easier than going down.
Havasu Falls
We spent our third and last full day at Havasu Falls, which is situated right before the campground. We brought our chairs and hammock and set up shop with a good book and some sunscreen. When we got hungry we walked up and got in line at the fry bread stand. The stand opens at 12:30 and the line gets long quick, go early and take your number. We got an “Indian taco” (basically taco toppings on fry bread instead of a taco shell) and a powdered sugar fry bread for dessert. They were so good and they definitely hit the spot after all that dehydrated food we’d been eating. Crowds during the day ebbed and flowed, we went for swims and took pictures when it wasn’t super busy.
The hike out
For the hike out we hit the trail a little after 5am to try and beat the sun peaking over the canyon walls. We took a snack break before the incline and took breaks on the switchbacks where there was still shade. I personally thought the hike in was harder than the hike out, I guess I’m more of an uphill hiker. We got up to the trailhead around 10:30am and there was someone selling gatorades at the top if you want to quench your thirst. We took a camp shower and changed in to new clothes in the bathrooms at the trailhead, which felt insanely good. After that we drove to Kingman for well deserved pizza and beer!
This trip is so worth the effort and best done with a few friends. My guide to backpacking Havasupai is here to help you plan your trip and have the best experience ever. Bask in having no cell service, sleeping to the sound of a babbling creek and swimming in gorgeous blue water. Be respectful of the locals and meditate among the many waterfalls. This is a once in a lifetime trip that many actually choose do more than once.
I hope my complete guide to backpacking Havasupai can come in handy for your own trip. If you liked this blog post, be sure to check out SUP Camping Horseshoe Bend! Don’t forget to book your trip with your favorite travel advisor, yours truly.
